Suddith with children at a church in Pedro Betancourt, Matanzas Pr. Cuba
13 years ago, after a long wait in Miami, and longer wait in Havana, I stepped out of the Jose Marti airport into the sweltering heat of Cuba in the summer. A friend was waiting for me with a cold Coca-Cola and pulled me around the crowd. I was the last of the team freed from the security detail and he had found our lunch. A little food stand on the curb serving sandwiches. The only item on the menu, roasted pork, and ham with cheese. The Cuban served with plantain chips and a can of the national cola, Tu Cola, for less than $2.00 American.
The classic Cuban sandwich doesn’t come with lettuce and tomato, or mayo or a relish. It’s simple. Like the way Cubanos live. Pork is in abundance in Cuba and alongside chicken, is the main protein consumed on the island. Beef and seafood are still quartered off for tourists and elites. The french bread is picked up daily in the market with a ration card and is perfect when a day or two old. The sandwich is normally pressed to help heat the day old meats through and melt the cheese. Cheese quality on the island varies, but a version of the sharp swiss we know here is used most often. The Cuban is a staple in open air markets and is called “Sandwich mixto”. The combining of two types of meat on one sandwich. Most often roasted pork and ham, occasionally it can be found with salami.
My love affair with Cuba started that day, under a tree, eating that sandwich and drinking a soda. I’ve returned 3 times since then and will be back later this summer. In between trips I perfected my espresso making and have searched Dayton looking for that sandwich on crunchy french bread, the right mix of meat, cheese, pickle, and mustard. In my quest for the best, I found these.
El Meson in West Carrolton.
It should come as no surprise that El Meson, specializing in Spanish, Caribbean and South American fare should have the area’s best Cuban sandwich. The Pork is seasoned perfectly with spices I can only describe as uniquely Cuban. Oregano, cumin, parsley, black pepper, all together smells of a Cuban country kitchen. They layer the pork alongside pickle, mustard, and swiss. Finished in a press, the roll comes back with a crunchy exterior ready to handle the juicy pork. Order it with a side of black beans. Sit on the patio, enjoy the sunshine, imagine you are in a Havana cafe all for under $10.00.
Don’t send angry letters. I get it. It’s not local. It’s not genuine. But trust me here. Buried deep in the voluminous menu there’s a hidden gem or two. My favorite is the Cuban sandwich. The Factory has done their research and their Cuban is on point. French roll pressed flat, pickle and mustard only. Nothing special. They make it the classic way, with roasted pork and a portion of thinly sliced ham under the swiss. It tastes just like the food cart outside Jose Marti. Skip the sides, they pale in comparison.
For the most authentic experience, skip the waiters, forks and nice table service. A roaming food truck is the best way to go. For a Cuban sandwich in Dayton, find McNasty’s. It has all you need. Perfectly pork, sweet ham, swiss cheese melted, that pickle and mustard in between a crusty pressed french roll. It is no frills, just the way you might get it in Havana Viejo.
Annie’s at Second Street Market
The Second Street Market always impresses me. The Cuban at Annie’s is no exception. Pork, ham, swiss, mustard and pickle, pressed and wrapped to go just like on the Island. Annie’s pork is a bit more shredded than I normally like. This changed things for me, but the flavor is still there. Equal pickle, mustard, and pork is balanced by the swiss. Every bite was a memory.
Where do you find a great Cuban sandwich? Let us know is the comments or on our Facebook page at Facebook.com/mostmetro
Instagram photos used with permission by @mle_m
